The last year of travelling have given me a huge interest for surfing. I never expected my mood to be controlled by weather the surf is good or not, but somehow I became that person. It's mostly a good thing, makes me spend hours in the water every day and hopefully some day it will make me a good surfer. I have planned this trip mostly based on surfespots (and offcourse yoga, but you can do that anywhere). I have waited the whole summer to finally be able to surf everyday and I felt like the happiest girl in the world when I was finally on my way to Mexico with a one way ticket. I had a couple of amazing surfdays when we first got here until I got knocked out pretty bad. It wasn't anything serious, but I needed five stitches and I had to stay out of the water for a couple of days. I have to admit It also made me respect the ocean and the board a littlebit more. Until that happened I haven't really been scared at all, but now I am a little.
Pretty cool huh? (Offcourse I had to document my first real surfinjury). Back in the water now, and got som new local friends in San Pancho that helps us out with the surf! Actually had two of the best surfdays in my life. Feels pretty safe, but I still need to take it a little slow.
Surf in Sayulita
Surf in Sayulita is a little dissapointing, there is lots of rocks, a lot of people and pretty small waves. You have bigger days here, but it's usually smaller than the other surfbeaches around. You can still have fun on a longboard if you are patient, but it's not my favourite. Bad surf also shows of on the vibe in a small town, Sayulita is as mentioned before more of a partytown because all the serious surfers go elsewhere (no effence Sayulita).
Surf in La Lancha
La Lancha is my favourite surfspot around here, a 15 minute drive from Sayulita. Two different brakes, and waves are surfable almost every day. Its a great place to practice, and usually not that buissy. Also the beach is beautiful, it's a part of a naturreserve, wich makes it pretty much untouched by humans. La Lancha is where I have had the most fun surfing so far, and planning to get back there a lot next week. The only downside about La Lancha is that its pretty difficult to get there if you dont have a ride. We have tried to hitch-hike a couple of times, but we are not sure if we want to risk that every day while we are here. There is also a bus, or we need friends with a car. It helps to know surfers around town, someone always wants to go. Usually it works out, but it's just a little harder to get there. So far it has been worth it every single time!
Surf is so much fun and I can't believe I have the oppourtunity to surf everyday for the next 6 months. Feels like a dream come true and I am for sure just going to keep on living it!